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New Orleans Cake Cafe
A once-wandering baker feathers his Marigny nest with frosting
Steve Himelfarb made his name in New Orleans as a man on the move.
By Ian McNulty |
November 16, 2009
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Sandro's Trattoria
A Metairie restaurant proves a neutral ground between two popular styles of Italian dining
The downtown dining buzz right now is fixed on a pair of new Italian
restaurants, Domenica and A Mano. Drawing on highly specific regional
dishes, each is a welcome flip side to the beloved-but-predictable
Creole-Italian fare that dominates the local red-sauce circuit.
By Ian McNulty |
November 9, 2009
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Panda King
Dim sum carts and Chinese cuisine at a sprawling West Bank eatery
I thought I had Panda King pegged the first time I saw its glowing
sign and semi-imperial facade shining from a Terrytown strip mall.
By Ian McNulty |
November 2, 2009
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Madrid Restaurant
Paella and tapas turn up at an unlikely Lakeview den
There aren't many areas where an upscale Spanish restaurant could
begin slinging paella in a former convenience store and still seem to
fit right in. Fortunately for the second incarnation of Madrid
Restaurant, post-Katrina Lakeview is one of those areas.
By Ian McNulty |
October 26, 2009
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Rum House
Rum and tacos highlight a restaurant navigating treacherous waters
Rum House restaurant styles itself as a Caribbean taqueria, which
translates as a cantina with lots of rum punch and other tropes of an
island vacation resort.
By Ian McNulty |
October 19, 2009
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Ciro's Cote Sud
French classics and crowd-pleasing pizza share the bill at a cozy Uptown cafe
WHAT Ciro's Côté Sud
By Ian McNulty |
October 12, 2009
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Sammy's Food Service & Deli
A Creole treasure trove hides in plain view in Gentilly
The next time visitors drop in and need a quick, no-fuss crash
course in New Orleans flavor, I'm taking them straight to Gentilly to
visit my new crush. We'll get shrimp-and-mirliton soup, maybe seafood
gumbo and certainly we'll split a heaping combo of shrimp remoulade and
crabmeat ravigote, doing business here under the deceptively mundane
name of stuffed tomato salad.
By Ian McNulty |
October 5, 2009
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Pho Orchid
Options abound on Metairie's widest-ranging Vietnamese menu
WHAT Pho Orchid
By Ian McNulty |
September 28, 2009
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Il Posto Italian Cafe
Simple elegance and Italian flavors define a backstreet cafe
WHAT Il Posto Italian Cafe
By Ian McNulty |
September 21, 2009
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Ralph's on the Park
A new chef and new flavors are turning heads
There's an air of stately permanence at Ralph's on the Park, one
that restaurants many times its age often don't achieve. It may come
from the bones of the 1860s-era building Ralph Brennan extensively
renovated to open his most ambitious restaurant in late 2003, and it's
surely abetted by the timeless grace of neighboring City Park.
By Ian McNulty |
September 8, 2009
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The Store
Offbeat specials keep an upscale CBD deli jamming
If you want to show visiting out-of-towners a vignette of New
Orleans as a bustling city of young, well-groomed professionals, take
them to The Store on any given weekday at lunchtime. That's when this
small, casual, CBD spot buzzes with law firm junior associates, bank
assistant vice presidents and nonprofit executive directors
By Ian McNulty |
August 29, 2009
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Creole Cottage
Casual Creole flavors are the draw at a downtown Gretna roost
WHAT Cafe Etienne
By Ian McNulty |
August 24, 2009
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Pupuseria La Macarena
A colorful Riverbend pupuseria offers hearty Salvadoran fare
The Ochoa family has introduced many locals to Salvadoran cooking as
they've moved their restaurant Pupuseria La Macarena to a
succession of locations over the years. At its latest spot, a snug
Riverbend storefront painted as brightly as a tropical fruit stand, all
that practice really shows.
By Ian McNulty |
August 17, 2009
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Phil's Grill
The burger gets a family friendly makeover at Phil's Grill
The concept at Phil's Grill addresses the heated issue of what makes
the best burger by lobbing the question at the customer. The menu at
this bright, casual restaurant by Lakeside Shopping Center has a short
list of house burgers with predetermined toppings.
By Ian McNulty |
August 10, 2009
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New Orleans embraces Mexican sandwiches
South of the Po-border
Taqueria Sanchez 46 West Bank Expwy., Gretna, 361-3050; 2633 Williams Blvd., Kenner,
467-1449; 4432 South I-10 Service Road, Metairie, 883-2649
By Ian McNulty |
August 3, 2009
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Galvez Restaurant
A grand riverfront space gets new life as a Spanish restaurant
WHAT Galvez Restaurant
By Ian McNulty |
July 27, 2009
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Cochon Butcher: Pigging Out
Old-World craftsmanship fuels an upscale destination for meats.
Working under one roof, staff at the restaurant Cochon and the
charcuterie/sandwich shop Cochon Butcher prepare different versions of
such south Louisiana staples as andouille and boudin. A hallway
connects the two businesses, which share a mailing address, and chefs
Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski are co-owners of each, along with
chef Warren Stephens who is the third partner of Butcher.
By Ian McNulty |
July 20, 2009
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Mike's American Grill
A downtown chef Takes a new approach in the Suburbs
Once a chef gets a reputation in this town, it can be a hard thing
to shake.
By Ian McNulty |
July 13, 2009
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Garage Pizza
Familiar fare mingles with meatless dishes at a downtown pizza joint
Calling in a take-out order to a pizza joint is usually done by
rote, but my first call to Garage Pizza went far off the typical
script.
By Ian McNulty |
July 6, 2009
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Joe Sepie's Cafe
Familiar local flavors stand out at a no-frills Jefferson cafe
WHAT Joe Sepie's Cafe
By Ian McNulty |
June 29, 2009
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The American Sector
The debut of the Solomon Victory Theater in the National World War
II Museum's expansion marked the opening of a new restaurant from chef
John Besh. The American Sector (945 Magazine St., 528-1940;
www.american-sector.com)
offers a menu of re-engineered 1940s-era Americana.
November 16, 2009
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Betty Fussell at Slow Food New Orleans Benefit
Writer Betty Fussell (www.bettyfussell.com) explores the
history and economics driving modern American eating habits in books
including Raising Steaks: The Life & Times of American Beef
and The Story of Corn. She is the guest at a benefit this
Saturday, Nov. 21, for the food advocacy group Slow Food New
Orleans (www.slowfoodneworleans.com)
hosted by Cafe Amelie (912 Royal St., 412-8965; www.princessofmonaco.com).
November 16, 2009
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Tiramisu 55
A hankering for late-night jambalaya, pasta with shrimp or a slice
of tiramisu is easy to satisfy thanks to a new 24-hour restaurant in
the Central Business District. Tiramisu 55 (123 Carondelet St.,
581-3288) features a large bar and open kitchen in a long, narrow space
just off Canal Street.
November 9, 2009
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Slice Pizzeria
Slice Pizzeria has expanded with a second Uptown location
(5538 Magazine St., 897-4800; www.slicepizzeria.com). The new
restaurant is in a renovated building previously occupied by a
franchise of the Italian Pie chain.
November 9, 2009
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Coulis Open
Coulis (3625 Prytania St., 304-4265) has opened at the former
location of the Bluebird Cafe. Chef James Leeming, previously of Dick
& Jenny's, took over the Uptown space and serves breakfast and
lunch daily from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.
November 2, 2009
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Sweet Gals: New on Magazine St.
October marked the opening of another Uptown cafe called Sweet
Gals (1906 Magazine St., 371-5950), which serves breakfast and
light lunch dishes. Crepes are the kitchen's specialty, including
egg-filled breakfast versions, savory lunch versions with chicken and
vegetables and dessert crepes with Nutella and fruit.
November 2, 2009
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a Mano
A Mano (870 Tchoupitoulas St., 208-9280), the new Italian
restaurant from chefs Adolfo Garcia and Joshua Smith, is now open in
the Warehouse District. The restaurant's name is Italian for "by hand,"
which sums up a menu concept full of house-made pastas, sausages and
cured meats.
October 26, 2009
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Jackson
The Lower Garden District restaurant Jackson (1910 Magazine
St., 522-5766) has reopened with new owners, a new chef and a new menu
but with the same name and much the same look. Co-owner Mark Anthony
and chef John Bolderson take a more casual approach than Jackson's
previous incarnation.
October 26, 2009
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Slow Food New Orleans
Louisiana leads the nation in oyster production, but how does all
this bounty stack up against pricier oysters from the Pacific
Northwest? Slow Food New Orleans hosts a comparative tasting
this Tuesday, Oct. 20, at the Uptowner (438 Henry Clay Ave.) to
find out.
October 19, 2009
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Le Foret
Le Foret (129 Camp St., 553-6738; www.leforetneworleans.com) has
opened following more than a year of renovations to a historic CBD
building. Chef Jimmy Corwell prepares a menu described as "French New
Orleans cuisine," with entrees including caramelized redfish, tuna
wrapped in pancetta, roasted lamb and venison au poivre.
October 19, 2009
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2007 Domaine la Milliere Cotes du Rhone
Southern Rhone, France / $15-$18 Retail
Grapes for this wine were sourced from cen-tury-old
vines. The 2007 bottling is a blend of 69 percent Grenache and 31
percent Syrah.
November 9, 2009
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2006 Valle Perdido Malbec
Patagonia, Argentina / $10-$13 Retail/p>
The influx of great value wines from Argentina
continues with this vibrant, full-bodied Malbec, showcasing beautiful,
mature fruit and even-toned tannins.
November 2, 2009
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2008 Wild Rock Pinot Noir
Central Otago, New Zealand / $18-$20 Retail
Grapes for this enchanting wine were developed from
a combination of Burgundian Pommard and Dijon clones sourced from
hillside vineyards in one of the most exciting growing areas for Pinot
Noir, New Zealand's Central Otago. In the glass, complex aromas of
vibrant red fruit with earth notes and a slight herbal character lead
into velvety layers of crushed berries and dried cherry with thyme and
spice notes.
October 26, 2009
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2007 Jean Louis Tribouley l'Alba
Roussillon, France / $20-$24 Retail
This stellar bottling from southern France is by a
husband and wife who focus on making wine in the vineyard with little
intervention.
October 5, 2009
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2007 Vitiano Rosso
Umbria, Italy / $10-$12 Retail
This stellar bargain is an approachable everyday
wine.
September 28, 2009
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2008 Arona Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand / $12-$15 Retail Marlborough, on the northeastern corner of New
Zealand's south island, is one of the best places on the planet to grow
Sauvignon Blanc vines — producing intensely flavored, expressive,
varietally correct wines.
September 21, 2009
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2005 Convento Oreja Roble
Ribera del Duero, Spain / $20 Retail
Spain has more acres devoted to vines than any other
country, yet many high-quality and good-value wines are not well known
here. This 100 percent Tempranillo discovery ages in a combination of
French and American oak.
September 14, 2009
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Wine With Each Course
Bryan Burkey's Wine Institute of New Orleans brings professional wine education to the Crescent City
Bryan Burkey caught the wine bug relatively late in life. A 39-year-old New York City artist in 1997, Burkey was at Manhattan's March Restaurant for a birthday dinner with his wife, a wine enthusiast.
By Noah Bonaparte Pais |
May 18, 2009
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Italian Renaissance
Italy produces more wine than any country in the world, but many of
its grapes and wine styles are not well known here.
By Brenda Maitland |
May 18, 2009
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Tasting Notes
The New Orleans Wine and Food Experience adds more own local flavor
Moving its Grand Tasting events to the Louisiana Superdome opened
the door to various types of growth for the New Orleans Wine and Food
Experience (NOWFE). More vintners and restaurants are participating
this year, the second in the Dome, but the venue is helping organizers
build on the "New Orleans Experience" part of the event.
By Will Coviello |
May 18, 2009
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Cru World Order
Local sommeliers recommend Old and New World wines
When choosing wines, New Orleans diners both rely on old favorites
and explore newer wines from around the globe.
By Brenda Maitland |
May 18, 2009
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Swizzle Wine Reviews
It's not officially summer yet, but it's long past
the time to tuck away big, red tannic bombs we love so much in the
fall. And they'll do better with a little aging, anyway.
By Brenda Maitland |
May 18, 2009
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Soil Wealth
Biodynamic farming isn't just a technique, it's grounded in a philosophy
After Miljenko "Mike" Grgich introduced organic farming to his
Rutherford, Calif., winery in 2000, the vintner didn't get the results
he had hoped for. So Grgich Hills Estate turned to biodynamics.
By Alex Woodward |
May 18, 2009
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Complements to the Chef
Wine picks lighten up for summer menus.
There's no mistaking Jacques Saleun's French heritage when he talks about the wonders that fresh summer produce and local seafood do for the bistro cuisine at his Kenner restaurant Chateau du Lac. When it comes to the topic of wine, however, Saleun sounds more like a native Louisianan.
By Ian McNulty and Will Coviello |
May 23, 2006
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